Sunday, September 28, 2008

Rootz

I've learned that my father's family are shrimp farmers living in a village nicknamed, "big friend's village." One of my cousins who I am asked to call "Older Brother" said that my grandmother's mother was a great shrimp catcher when they used to go out on the boats. As Older Brother puts it, "When she threw her net in the sea, she pulled many when she brought it in." Since 1990 they have been farming shrimp in artificial ponds due to the decrease in shrimp population. Older Brother says some young men still go out and shrimp the old way.

There stands in their courtyard, a great house built by my father's eldest brother. Inside is fine wood and marble furniture and painted tiles. Older Sister, his wife and a much older woman with white hair sit me down with some red eggs and ask me to eat. Red eggs are for good luck when relatives return. This time, Lucky, a senior at the college accompanies me to see my relatives in Yen Duin. He is a native of Wenchang and therefore speaks the local dialect unlike, Rechard the reporter who helped me track down this village. I agreed to be interviewed by him in order to find more clues to my ancestry. Below is a link to the article.

I am featured on page 13 in South China Metropolitan News:
http://ngdsb.hinews.cn/html/2008-09/24/content_68846.htm

It says roughly: On September 21, American girl CHEONG EILEEN arrives at Qionghai Boao. In Qionghai Boao period, CHEONG EILEEN wants to know that her parents in Hainan's families in where, do want to know how father's surname does use Chinese to write, wants to know that concerns life experience some details. But it is a pity, EILEEN which is born in the US does not understand Chinese, own Chinese name will not write, such words, wanted to find the villages and small towns which she the ancestry once lived, its difficulty was no different with looks for a needle in a haystack.   Her English name very China   The EILEEN birth in the American New York, graduates from the New York State University. Her father is the commercial vehicle specialty driver, the mother is professional nurse. After the parents divorce, EILEEN the life is getting more and more independent, in addition the American culture advocation independent disposition, she and parents' psychic distance are getting more and more far.   EILEEN pronounces own name “cherishes Ling”, is she surnamed the clock? Reporter wrote down “the clock” on a white paper the character, EILEEN shakes the head, said: “not too looks like. In childhood daddy taught me to write Chinese name, what a pity since entered the American School, all were with English, Chinese name slowly have faded from the memory.”   Reporter wrote down with her sends oneself surname similarly the sound “CHEONG” “Zhu, the clump” and so on surnames, EILEEN shakes the head said that did not look like. She to reporter explained like the parents name original intention: “EI, is LOVE, LEEN, is the Chinese girls is called `tinkling comes ' that Ling frequently.”Reporter then understood that the parents took the very typical Chinese girl's name to her - - - to love Ling.   The paternal grandparents avoid chaos caused by war exileing home to make a living   Likes Ling telling reporter, her paternal grandparents crossed the seas for the avoidance chaos caused by war to cross ocean in the 1940s Singapore. Her father has three elder brothers, at present makes a living completely in Singapore, only then father to New York.   Liked Ling adding that her mother was surnamed Feng, she stressed specially “Feng” was “in front of a horse were many two spot spots” “Feng”. Does the mother ancestral home Hainan Sanya, where make concrete in her also wants to know. Likes Ling the mother having three younger brothers, three younger sisters, love the Ling mother altogether 7 people in addition.   Mentions in overseas life uncle the uncle and the mother's sisters, loves Ling appears very proud. “the David uncle was the 1970s Singapore first masculine hair stylist, the people were called him the `hairstyle magician ', at the beginning of 1990, he had designed the hairstyle in the US before British Prime Minister Marguerite - Thatcher Madame. The David uncle has at present in American State of Arizona Felix his styles hair Sharon.”But loves Ling the cousin, David uncle's son George, is an outstanding pilot. Likes Ling also having an uncle to go to work at present in Shenzhen foreign enterprises.   The father said that loves the Ling ancestral home Hainan Wenchang   Because likes the Ling natural disposition striving to excel willfully, she did not want the seeking help parents, certainly to find her “the root” depending on her strength, therefore she did not agree telephoned inquiry family's some details to the father.   on 22nd the morning, likes Ling thinking through finally, to telephoned far through the Internet in the American New York's fathers. Likes Ling the father hearing daughter's sound, obviously is excited. His language fast asked daughter many questions a succession of very quickly: “how do you are arrive at the motherland to go? Is idea which you take? What now are you making? Where are you at to live?”   In order to clarify loves Ling's surname, reporter to likes the Ling father through the network telephone trying to prove directly. Likes Ling the father telling the newspaper reporter: “my ancestral home Hainan Wenchang, the ancestor lives in a Wenchang smoke pillar's hamlet.”Likes the Ling father also mentioning that the village the name, is called “the big friend village”. Then, likes Ling the father asking that reporter “you cannot understand the Hainan words? The standard spoken Chinese I said that is not too standard, the Hainan words I understand say.”He told the reporters, he is surnamed “the village” for generations, “Zhuang-zi” “village”.   Reporter ravels finally, likes Ling Chinese name calling: Zhuang Ai Ling.   Accepts “the westernization” the education not to forget the root   Likes Ling being born in the US, has the American food, spoke the American words, makes American the friend, therefore, although loves a Ling steadily attractive China face, as soon as but she raises hand, as soon as steps, as soon as shrugs, is seeping the foreigner mark which cannot erase. When specially she opens the mouth the speech, a pure American English has cut thoroughly her with the traditional China girls the boundary. But loves in the Ling bone throughout the flow Chinese's blood. She said like this to reporter: “what I accept is the West educates, is contaminated in the Western culture more than 20 years, but I had not forgotten that I come from China, before me by overall `westernization ', I must understand first Chinese and the Chinese culture, I want to know my root in where, I doesn't want to forget own basis are.”   Therefore, one month ago, loves Ling in the notice including in parents' any relatives and friends' situation, bought the airplane ticket to fly Hainan resolutely. At present she found one in the Hainan Wenchang Foreign language Institute to teach English the work.   Liked Ling saying: “I will be very ashamed I not to speak Chinese. I must study Chinese from now on, but must study speaks the Hainan words. Like this I only then possibly well understand China.”   Liked Ling being able to find her in Hainan's family members? She could find mother's ancestor inhabited area? The newspaper will continue to pay attention loves the story which Ling inquires into.   (newspaper Reporter Li Yu photographs report)

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Rain, rain, remind me of the days...





On this rainy day in Hainan, I am reminded of other happy rainy days spent in bright lights, bright city- my New York. Like the day I helped Erin Shannon set up her first Unseenamerica show in Kingston. I remember us attaching red balloons to lead gallery hoppers to the building. I remember being pleased with how I managed to light the photographs with some lamps borrowed from the offices. I remember eating yummy burritos and taco pie.

It has now been raining for more than 12 hours. And it is raining hard. We are in a mini-typhoon, one of many to come in the autumn months as the weather begins to get cooler. As the wind picks up, it howls outside and bangs on the front door.

Pineapple and chocolate museli cereal with milk is like the best thing in my world right now. Its comforting in the midst of this stormy night.

Highlights of my past two weeks are opening ceremonies at the college, National Day in China celebrating 59 years as the People's Republic and my vacation in Sanya. All of which were incredible. The government of Hainan hosted many foreign dignitaries at the five star Sheraton in Haikou, the capital of Hainan. We were wined and dined. They did not have a show like the one put on by the students at Hainan Foreign Lanugages Vocational College however. It was unlike any kind of interpretive dancing I've ever seen.

Termites have invaded my desk. If its not mold which grows easily in this humid climate, then its bugs. C'est la vie en Hainan.

I can't be out to my friends here. I don't want them to judge me or worse, try to change me. I have no idea how the other foreign teachers feel about homosexuality. The topic hasn't come up yet, not exactly anyway. But when I've talked about my dating history, I always refer to my partners in third pronoun and I wonder, do they suspect?

A Chinese teacher invited me to her boyfriend's for dinner with a volunteer from Finland and a former teacher from Guangdong who was visiting. We had been out cycling at dawn to the beach and back. The Cantonese teacher brought up how homosexuality was not ostracized much at the school she went to, in fact, both parents and teachers were usually fully aware of the relationship but just didn't discuss the nature. Then the Finn said that she didn't understand why all over the world, it was such as issue, who people choosed to love. For the first time, I really felt I was tuly among friends. I joked to Sam's boyfriend, how he would feel if a woman who was more successful and good looking than him came along to sweep Sam off her feet, would he give Sam away to her? He said, yes. He was a little drunk and had been talking about how he would step aside if a better man came for Sam. The Finn said, now that's true love! Now the Finn has gone back to Finland. God bless you Selena!

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Typhoon Alert

I am staying at a B&B in Boao, Hainan run by an expat and her chinese journalist husband. (my students are in military training) He wants to publish a story about my quest to find my lineage here and it would be helpful to have any old photographs. Uncle Bernard doesn't seem to know where any of Grandpa's old letters are and thinks that perhaps a cousin from Brunei may have more information but he doesn't have her contact # either.

Dad's relatives live in a village not too far from Wenchang city. It is called Yei Duin- a shrimp town. Rechard Li, the journalist and I are going to visit there tomorrow.


Boao is clean; the cleanest town I have been in on Hainan. There is a picturesque main street lined by palm trees on either side. The highways are smooth and have working lamps. The beach is not crowded; in fact there are few swimmers, fishing nets outnumber them. I saw the biggest shrimp I ever saw in my life. They were the size of small lobsters.

Taoist temples are prevalent throughout Boao. Just across the street from the Inn is a temple centered on male energ
y and around the corner by the river is a temple for women. Inside that temple is a tall dark statue of Kuan Yin facing the four directions. There is also a room dedicated to Mardu, the fishermen’s guardian and on the other side of the front entrance is a Taoist alter for ancestor worship. Three religions sharing a temple is not common in China, but for the people of Boao it is convenient, according to the caretaker pictured here.

Eating breakfast in the morning with pancakes and coffee refills at the kitchen counter, feels like being back home at an American diner. You can check out Liz and Rechard's inn at www. hainan-letsgo.com

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Hainan Daydreams & Idoltry


My roommate, Joanne, thinks it's wonderful that where we live in Hainan, they're still 50 years behind. I'm not sure that I can marvel at that claim. The loud motorbikes that exhaust smelly diesel fumes and the open sewer drains that give off even more sinister stenches do not reveal a charming and quaint backwardness.

This is also a woman who can't seem to get a grip on the idea that I am Chinese and American. While I got over the fact that I am living with a Canadian during our first week, she is still going on about how I really am different from other Chinese girls and that I don't know everything that is Chinese. Sometimes when she is talking to me, I think that Joanne looks like George Bush Jr. with a sort of blank look in her eyes as she professes things that I don't care about like her belief in Jesus as her lord and savior.

The Born Agains outnumber me here in Wenchang, so I'm not about to disagree with their beliefs or get into a discussion about how I am Buddhist through and through. I have graciously accepted their invitations to Sunday lunch and I even watched "The Passion" with Joanne. It only convinced me never to watch another movie by Mel Gibson.

Today at lunch which we have every Friday at the Dicks' home, Joanne asked me if I understood what Born Again means. Quite frankly, I know little, I said and to be honest I said to myself, I've had little interest in their mission. Any religion that needs to increase its numbers in order to measure its success is not truly spiritual. Anne's hubby John from Melbourne tried to explain it as there being a ravine between myself and God. I need Jesus to cross the ravine. According to Joanne, I am not a living soul until I have accepted Jesus into my life as the one true savior. Only then will I be given a new soul that will connect me to God. A little scary? Yes, I know. And I have to live with this around me for nine more months. On the upside, Deanna, James, John, Anne and Joanne are lively, like to dance, play music and joke around. They are for the most part, "normal" people except when it comes to talking about being "Born Again." Some talk about it as if its like AA as though before being reborn, they were complete addicts to the ills of life and heading to hell. Now, all is blessed. Whenever something good happens, God is blessing us and when something bad happens, its the devil's fault.

Today, my students are dressed in army fatigues. Watching them go to the canteen as usual to pick up sugar cane, water or icecream with innocent pony tails tucked in caps, their green camouflage pants are slipping as they figure out how to put on a thick, ungainly pleather belt. They are almost comically disguised to me, as I watch them saunter nonchalantly as they usually do except now in army costume, no less dignified than they were in their civilian wear. What do they do in military training, I don't really know, just as I know little about what they do in Born Again activities. Joanne keeps trying to explain to me that it's not religion, that Jesus isn't religion, Jesus is just love. I am all for love. But I draw the line at the bible, at the ideas of a tangible heaven and hell. Let's focus on peace and harmony in this world, please. Like how we have to prepare children for war.

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Shenzhen State of Mind



As the airplane descended towards Shenzhen International, it began to rain- cloaking the airport in grey urban atmosphere comparable to New York. The fields outlying beyond the city's grid of buildings between valleys of mountains did little to assuage my view of China as altogether rural . I wondered from the sky, where was the city of Shenzhen?

The city is made of many greenways; a truly modern metropolis of lush parks and well ventilated subways. It boasts healthy gardens along the sidewalk and posh malls. My Uncle lives in Shekou, across the street from Shenzhen University, a neighborhood home to many expats. Lucky me, got the first week of school off because all the freshman hasn't arrived yet and I got all the freshers as my students!

After a spot of tea and breakfast, we toured Da Mei Sha, the big beach where curious giant sculptures of rainbow angels danced across the sands. The sand was sizzling hot, but the water just perfect. Surrounding the beach were soft hills that looked like rolling mossy beds.

In our efforts to find a nice hiking trail in the mountains, we found Fairylake Gardens and an elegant white statue of Kuan Yin welcoming us into the temple. Following the windy road around the mountain side, one can see people hanging red lanterns for Mid-Autumn festival. We pass a smaller pagoda but no less grand before arriving at the gate of the main temple. Two warrior guards of massive girth stand by each side of the entrance as we are given incense to proceed inside.

I think that this journey must be fate, to meet Kuan Yin in the mountain woods, because we had not planned to come here, my Uncle only remembering this place when we are close by. There are many other Chinese deities within, four on each level coming from the four directions. The temple is not crowded but there is sometimes a small line to kneel in front of each God or Goddess. I am not sure what the procedure is to say prayers in a Buddhist temple, so I half follow what others are doing and follow my own instincts, since you must close your eyes upon praying and cannot keep watching the other worshipers.Its been raining all day today as I try to finish this blog which I started over a week ago. Here is a photo of our driver, whose name I can't recall, lighting incense inside this house of candles. It was really hard for me to get close to this chandelier of hot candles because of the heat. Imagine, that it is already quite warm outside and then, getting more uncomfortable as you approach an iron structure with melting red candles. Not exactly peaceful. At the top of the temple, where we deposit our incense sticks, there is a wide basin of ash where many incense are still lit, sticking up like hot coals. Somehow, you've got to get your incense in there without burning your hand. But I have to admit it was beautiful with the chanting of monks over loud speakers and white pigeons fluttering around the temple.

That night I got shiatsu done for the first time. Uncle Bernard took me downtown to see his favorite doctor. He warned me that it would hurt a lot, but I didn't believe him. Most massages have never been rough enough. It was pretty painful, Ms. Masseuse was very strong. I was all sorts of sore the next day. But I guess, that's what happens when all those toxins are really worked out of your muscles and pressure points. Here is me posing with the doctor and the young masseuse.

I was invited to a birthday party by one of my Uncle's colleagues. He thought it would be a good idea if I hung out with some young people. So we had to go shopping for a suitable gift for a young lady turning 25years old. At the mall I found this curious mannequin. I was surprised to find that many women were not only fascinated by my hairstyle but also thought it was beautiful. But I was even more surprised to find these dreads in a window display. I only wish mine could be as long and beautiful as these, but I'm pretty happy with the way they're coming out, curly and full of bumps.

Sunday, September 14, 2008

Peel Sessions



Listening to the rain yesterday, I doubted whether we were going out to view the moon on Mid-Autumn Festival. But as we made our way to the #25 bus and clambored on, I could see throngs of motorbikes heading the same direction. Once at Galung Bay, crowds of people zig zagged like ants carrying penguin balloons and other stuffed animals they had won as game prizes. Amongst the crowds were also cars and motorbikes moving their way between the people. Police stood around, not really directing traffic but more like observing the chaos and there to make sure that no serious injuries occured.
video
My friends, junior students at the college, Dandy and Carolyn told me that in their hometowns, many people went to the beach to see the moon too. For as long as they could remember, this was always the way. To see the moon's bright reflection in the water along with many giant fireworks glittering across the surface made me feel like a kid on July 4th again. Many circles of incense or candles were made in the sand. Sometimes the sand was piled up to make small circular dunes, looking like mooncakes that could fit several people inside.

Li Bai
Drinking Alone with the Moon






























































































From a pot of wine among the flowers
I drank alone. There was no one with me –
Till, raising my cup, I asked the bright moon
To bring me my shadow and make us three.
Alas, the moon was unable to drink
And my shadow tagged me vacantly;
But still for a while I had these friends
To cheer me through the end of spring....
I sang. The moon encouraged me.
I danced. My shadow tumbled after.

As long as I knew, we were boon companions.
And then I was drunk, and we lost one another.
...Shall goodwill ever be secure?
I watch the long road of the River of Stars.

Samantha, a Chinese English teacher says that she saw people playing fireworks in the sea. They are let off in the water and bounce cross the surface. I did not get to see this because Dandy and Carolyn had took me to meet their roommate Selena's friends while Samantha and her boyfriend had continued to walk along the shore. Remember when I said that Mid-Autumn Day is like Valentine's in China? They had set up a small camp with bananas, longan fruit, orange drink, Tsingtao beer, candles and two boxes of mooncake. There were about fourteen young men and women between the ages of 19 and 20 altogether. I was introduced to Julia and Coco, while the guys did not have any English names and insisted that they couldn't speak English at all. When I tried to encourage conversation by saying in Chinese that I would only speak Chinese if he would speak English, the young man replied that my Chinese was better than his English. Many Chinese students are very shy about speaking English because they are concerned that their pronunciation is poor but usually, I can easily understand what they are trying to say in English. I have to tell them that only by using English will they be able to improve. On top of that, I am told that Chinese in general are shy about talking to foreigners, even though many of them understand English because they have been schooled in at least three years of grammar in elementary and middle school. Their mooncake had delicious white lotus paste and a little bit of yellow eggs in the center. For those of you who have never had mooncake, the paste is very sweet. The inside can also include fruits and nuts. The outside is golden brown with an ornate pattern embossed like old fasioned iron castes. Carolyn and Dandy choosed to stay on the beach and spend the rest of the night with Selena and her friends. The college locks the gate to the dormitories at 11:30pm to discourage students from going out late. They told me they would stay up the whole night and return in the morning. I was feeling pretty exhausted and decided to go home with Samantha and Jie, grabbing some fresh coconut juice on the way home and nestling in my own bed under the big bright moon. video

Friday, September 12, 2008

identity and anniversary

What does it mean to be Chinese-American in Hainan, China?

My Uncle calls himself and I, yellow bananas meaning yellow on the outside but white on the inside. People here question my American identity almost daily, asking where am I from, where are my parents from and do I speak Chinese. They are befuddled that I look Chinese but am not like them, a China person.

Just yesterday, while talking with other foreign teachers as I waited for visa processing at the government office, a woman who had been watching me for a while from across the floor, came over and sat beside my colleagues and said to me in Chinese, that I looked like a girl from Sanya, not like someone from New York. This actually pleased me because my Mom's parents are from that area on the southern most part of the island where the beaches are famed to be white and the sea, sparkling blue.

Kimberley: what!
they dont want chinese american teachers?
11:21 PM me: well i applied to a few places in other provinces too and they all prefer white foreigners cuz it looks more authentic
11:29 PM Kimberley: omg
11:30 PM even tho you're an american and are fluent and native english speaker?!
11:32 PM me: sure
people ask me all the time how can i be american when i look chinese
Kimberley: wow that is really interesting

How did I first learn about this rampant disqualification of yellow bananas? Here's how one foreign teacher explained it when responding to my job application.

"In regard to education, it appears that you have experience teaching photographic principles to primary and secondary school children. Your work as an EFL teacher in mainland China would be a very different experience: One that involves excessive repetition of simple words and phrases, in a manner that is fundamentally different than serving as an English conversation partner to Chinese daycare workers. Do you sincerely think you would enjoy teaching English as a second language?

Second, I assume from your résumé that you are an American-born Chinese. In this context, I am curious as to what your long-term intentions are in regard to working and living in China. I ask because Hainan YuDa seeks teachers who are hoping to make a long-term commitment to the school and the community, as opposed to those who are simply looking for a means of supporting themselves for six months to a year while they pursue other agendas.

Finally—in the role of an unsolicited mentor, and as someone who is married to an Asian EFL teacher himself—I must ask if you are aware of the terrible discrimination you will face as an American-born Chinese EFL teacher in China? As a rule, the role of foreign teachers in China is de-professionalized such that foreigners are usually hired far more so for their appearance and ability to attract new students than they are for their ability to speak English natively for the sole purpose of facilitating the practice of speaking and listening skills. The “real” teaching, for the most part, is delegated to the Chinese English teachers, who are viewed by the Chinese as being in a far better position to teach English to Chinese students than foreigners are (of course, this position has absolutely no pedagogical value whatsoever). They do so by excessively drilling the students on the rules of grammar, making them memorize long lists of words out of any real context, and by teaching the fundamentals of sentence construction entirely in Chinese—which leads to an entire population of former students who have “studied” English for no less than 12 years, and, quite predictably, have acquired not a single word of it in all that time.

My point is, if you have the possibility of a future as a teacher in New York, why would you want to forego that in exchange for EFL teaching in mainland China, particularly given the amount of discrimination you will face here from school owners, administrators, the Chinese teachers, parents and, no less so, the students?"

-Gregory Mavrides, PhD
Vice Principal
Hainan YuDa Foreign Language Academy


Pretty soon it will be the 7th anniversary of Sept. 11th. What does that mean to Chinese people in Hainan? Well, most are either too wrapped up in the Sichuan earthquake or more timely,
the annual Mooncake festival this weekend when the harvest moon is paid homage too. Tonight I go to the beach to view the moon as part of mid-autumn festival and eat mooncake.

According to Jason Lee, an English teacher at Wenchang Middle School and real estate entrepreneur, there is a fairy who lives on the moon named Chang-Er. She got up there because she ate some bad food and floated up to the moon. Her husband tried to catch her but his fingers barely grazed her robes.

So they live separately, she on the moon, he on the earth. Except, once a month when the moon is at it's fullest, he can see her face and they can talk to eachother. Now many people confess their innermost secrets, hopes and deepest desires to the moon in hopes that she will pass this message on to their loved ones. In China, the moon will be at its fullest on September 16th. They say this day is compared to Valentine's Day in western culture.

Monday, September 8, 2008

idle thoughts and school life




Littering is a huge problem from what I can see. The driver who picked me up from the airport in the school car, decisively picked an unfinished construction site to deposit his empty herbal tea can as we turned the corner into the town of Wenchang. From my bedroom window, I just now observed the soft drink trucker disposing of some plastic wrapping as he climbed out of the passenger side to unload the delivery at the local canteen next to my house.
One good thing about the university that you could say is leftover from the ethics of Communist practice is that each day a different class is assigned to clean the grounds- a group of ten sweeps together. This is something expected by the environmental group on campus for like one day in the states. Another thing that might surprise you but which seems quite normal at any college is that students sleep ten to a room on straw mats. They are very congenial about it too! There's book shelves in between the bunks, and as I count I realize that there's a shelf per person as well! I guess, living in nation of over a billion people, you get used to these minimalist conditions. video
P.S. Send me names, I have been told since I have the freshmen, I may have to give many of them English names! I have seven classes with about 40 students to a class, that's 280 names to be given!